Is each machine tested?
First we take the original Chinese machine, (we use as a ‘chassis’), completely apart, throw some parts out, modify some parts and put it all back together, adding our own custom parts.
Then every function is fully tested.
Then we drain out the lye and ship, knowing it is in full working order.
There are NO exceptions, even when we had a queue that meant some people wouldn’t receive their AquaCure for 3 months.
Since we have a lifetime warranty, I want the AquaCure to work properly. Machines that come back under warranty cost money, time and customer dissatisfaction. If it isn’t done right the first time, when do you have time to take it apart and repair it? It’s in my best interest to make sure people get a fully functional machine.
Our customers are protected by our lifetime warranty. And warranty issues get priority service.
What to look for when considering purchase of any hydrogen technology
1. Safety – Like anything, HydrOxy (aka Brown’s Gas, BG or HHO) is safe if handled correctly. Look for a machine that has safety features like:
- Low liquid level shutoff (because electrolyzers that run out of fluid can explode)
- High Pressure electrical shutoff (to stop making gas if the pressure rises, because if the pressure rises too high the electrolyzer can explode).
- Low operating pressure (because the higher the pressure, the more violent the explosiuon). The AquaCure has an operating pressure of 2 psi, most others operate at 20 psi.
- Mechanical High Pressure Relief Valve (because electronic switches can fail, so a backup is needed)
- Timer switch (so machine automatically shuts off)
- Adequate scrubbing and/or means to keep the gas clean and pure.
- A machine that is safety certified and exceeds all international safety standards.
- Proven Customer Satisfaction:
- A business that has been building and selling electrolyzers worldwide since 1986 with 99% customer satisfaction
- A business that will tell you ALL the dangers and teach you how to operate the machine safely
- A business that will work one-on-one with customers to answer any questions
- Low and/or easy maintenance.
- Lifetime Warranty.
- 1-year satisfaction guarantee or full purchase price refunded.
What is Electrically Expanded Water and why does it matter?
Spectro-anyalsis shows that HydrOxy contains monatomic hydrogen and oxygen but it’s only about 3% of the total volume.
Scientific evidence also shows that HydrOxy contains a significant volume of Electrically Expanded Water (ExW). ExW is a plasma form of water. Depending on the quality of the HydrOxy gas, ExW can be up to 30% of the total volume. Learn more at ‘What is Brown’s Gas”? http://www.eagle-research.com/cms/faq/what-is-browns-gas
ExW is still water (hasn’t split into hydrogen and oxygen) but it’s water that’s soaked up electricity and become a gaseous form of water that is NOT water vapor or steam. If cooled, it does not condense.
Plasma is the fourth state of matter (solid, liquid, gas, plasma) and is defined as an ‘ionized gas’. ExW is water in a gaseous form that has excess energy (in the form of bio-available electrons). It’s a plasma at room temperature so it’s a ‘cold’ plasma.
Here’s the page where George Wiseman describes the discovery: http://www.eagle-research.com/browngas/whatisbg/watergas.php.
Here’s a video of ExW being formed: http://www.eagle-research.com/erpdf/bg/ExWform.mp4
ExW is what makes Brown’s Gas (aka HHO, HydrOxy, etc.) more effective for health application than using straight molecular hydrogen (H2). Because the body (and particularly bodies that are ill) NEEDS the energy (electrons) that the ExW provides.
It’s good to give the body the material (hydrogen) it needs to heal, but also helps greatly if you give the body the energy it needs to use the material to heal.
It’s like any construction site. You can bring the concrete and lumber, but without electricity and fuel no machines can operate. The ExW provides the fuel for the machines.
Bodies that are ill usually have compromised energy generation systems and have used up their energy reserves. So the ExW is needed for best results.
Can I use plain water in the bubbler?
If you don’t plan to drink the water, that only affects the final water.
The filter, (the stainless steel tank), should always have distilled water but only needs changed about every 8 hours of use.
The humidifier should always have distilled water but, if you are not breathing or drinking the final water can be ‘clean’ water (tap or spring) NOT mineralized!
The final bubbler should always have distilled water. Even if you are not drinking it immediately, you can then drink it later. This is the drinking water and some people have strongly held belief that mineraized water is what they should drink so that’s what they use in the bubbler… It’s your choice.
Your Berkey water sounds okay for the final bubbled water if you are not drinking it, but as I said, if you are not drinking it, you can just keep bubbling it until you ARE ready to drink it.
Is normal distilled water good enough?
Here in Europe they distinguish between distilled water for irons, humidifier etc. and the other type for medical use, but this one I have to buy in the pharmacy (and it cost much more). Is the “normal” distilled water good enough, also for making with the bubbler the water to drink?
Yes, the normal distilled water should be good enough. I’d use the pharmacy grade if I could afford it but if money is an issue then the regular is acceptable.
The purer you can make the water, the better everything will perform. But the difference would be hard to measure except over a long period of time.
More sludge will form in the machine with less pure water resulting in need for more frequent clean outs. The less pure water won’t scrub lye quite as well as pure water, (in the filter and humidifier). The less pure water won’t, (in my opinion), be quite as healthy to drink, due to non-bio-available impurities.
Another option is to buy a really good water distiller. I’d recommend one that has a ‘pre heat’ cycle, which gets rid of ‘light’ contaminates before the regular distillation starts. Here’s the one I use: https://purater.com
Can I use my high pH well water for bubbling?
The problem is that your well water tests high because of impurities. Just because the pH is high doesn’t make the water healthful. It needs to be high because of hydrogen, not minerals.
Lye makes a pH of 13…Would you drink lye water? So no, my recommendation is drink ONLY distilled water that has been bubbled with BG.
I now recommend water changes in the filter and humidifier after every 8 to 10 hours of use.
I am concerned about safety with the AquaCure. in the manual you say that it should be operated in an environment temperature 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. It gets hot here and the main room I live in can get over 90 in summer. Can the device spontaneously combust even when not in use?
No, 90°F is OK for that, it will not self-explode even in higher temperatures. The main reason I put in the temperatures is to keep it out of FREEZING temperatures, which would damage the machine.
Should I keep my AquaCure in a cool room, only?
I wouldn’t operate it at greater that 90°F because fittings inside might start to leak.
What is Lye?
Also known as Sodium Hydroxide, NaOH and caustic soda. This is an inorganic chemical at minimum 99% pure. It is a white solid and highly caustic metallic base and alkali salt. Sodium hydroxide is soluble in water, ethanol and methanol.
This alkali is deliquescent and readily absorbs moisture and carbon dioxide in air.
In Soap Making: Lye is mixed with water to create a lye solution. Lye solution, when mixed with fats and oils, will cause a chemical reaction called saponification (fancy for soap). The result of saponification is beautiful handmade soap.
In Food Prep: Food uses of sodium hydroxide include washing or chemical peeling of fruits and vegetables, chocolate and cocoa processing, caramel coloring production, poultry scalding, soft drink processing, and thickening ice cream. Olives are often soaked in sodium hydroxide for softening; Pretzels and German lye rolls are glazed with a sodium hydroxide solution before baking to make them crisp.
Lye is also used in candle making and making Bio-Diesel.
In Cleaning: Industrial, or technical, grade lye is often used as a cleaner and is the active ingredient in common drain cleaners. Sodium silicate is often used as a corrosion inhibitor to prevent lye from corroding pipes while it removes the blockage. Citric acid, or other acids, are often used in coordination with lye as it creates an exothermic reaction (heat) to leave sodium acetate (a salt) and water.
An alternative, but less effective alternative is sodium bicarbonate (do NOT use sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) or sodium chloride (table salt) in electrolyzers).
Why a lean mixture of lye?
You could put 10 ounces of lye in and you’ll get a much more efficient production of twice the quantity of gas.
I choose to run a really lean mixture (on the edge of not producing any gas) to make the electrolyte ‘safer’ (less caustic), reduce foaming, and reduce gas production to a level more safe to breathe.
The gas is totally non-toxic, but has this explosion issue… So to make it non-explosive it needs to be mixed with air in a ratio that causes the final mixture to be LESS than 4% hydrogen in air.
So I run a lean electrolyte (about 1 ounce of lye per quart) to balance out all the factors. But any leaner and your gas production drops off fast.
How much lye?
One bottle of lye for sure and optionally (but recommended) one bottle of citric acid.
The operation manual has now been changed to match the website and if you subtract the weight of the bottle and cap you’ll find it’s close to one ounce of powder in each bottle.
In any case, you could put up to 4 ounces in the machine and it’d be OK, it just doesn’t NEED more than one ounce.
However much lye you add, it’s recommended to add an equal amount of citric acid.
Why add citric acid?
Some people try to use only citric acid as an electrolyte, because it is ‘food grade’.
Citric acid is a very poor electrolyte. It requires more than twice the voltage to puch amperage using citric acid. Citric acid works best to help mitigate the effects of a great electrolyte like lye.
He is asking me how much chemical lye he should put in it.
My electrolyzers will function with as little as 1 ounce of lye per quart (about 30 grams per liter). For full efficiency you need 20% lye by weight or 200 grams per liter of water.
The citric acid
Helps mitigate foaming,
Helps reduce the electrolyte caustic alkalinity and
Helps keep the electrodes clean longer. It is optional but recommended.
I recommend adding citric acid 1:1 with lye. So for one ounce lye use also one ounce citric acid.
Does adding citric acid help with longevity of refills?
No. It helps keep the plates clean longer (slightly increasing efficiency long term) and somewhat mitigates the caustic nature of the lye (only matters when you pour our the lye solution).
You will only add PURE WATER after the first fill (charge) of NaOH. The NaOH is a catalyst and is supposed to remain in the machine.
It occurs to me to ask… How much lye did you put in the machine? If 120 VAC version it should have been 1 oz (28 grams) per 3 cups (750 ml).
If you use too much lye, you will get foaming and lye will leave the machine.
Why list citric acid AND lye? Won’t they cancel out each other?
No they complement each other.
The lye is the catalyst, lowering the electrical resistance of the distilled water so that the electrolysis can happen. You want as pure of lye as possible, to hopefully prevent impurities that cause foaming or make poisonous gasses or clog up the machine.
The citric acid helps keep the plates clean longer, mitigates the caustic of the lye and helps reduce foaming.
Or do I use just one (which makes more sense)?
Why is the citric acid “optional?
Because it is not ‘mission critical’ for the function of electrolysis.
Do you suggest I use it?
Generally Yes. IF the Citric Acid is pure and doesn’t cause foaming.
The citric acid helps:
Mitigate the pH of the lye (safer to work with the solution)
Mitigate foaming (which causes lye loss)
Keep the plates clean longer (extending the machine’s functional life)
Lye vs Citric Acid as electrolyte catalyst
Some people have discovered that it is possible to use straight Citric Acid as a catalyst (instead of lye).
Citric Acid is a very POOR catalyst. It is very inefficient at allowing water to conduct electricity so takes about twice the voltage to push amperage across the cells (compared to efficient catalysts). This makes poor to no gas production and excess heat.
I recommend Citric Acid ONLY as an ASSIST to an efficient catalyst (like lye) because (as an acid) it tend to mitigate the caustic pH, it tends to mitigate foaming and it helps keep everything clean inside the electrolyzer.
BUT… It turns out that SOME brands of Citric Acid contain an oil that EXACERBATES foaming, so you can lose all your lye in a day (instead of years). So be sure your Citric Acid is high quality.
I’ve tested thousands of electrolytes and electrolyte densities and found Lye (aka NaOH, Sodium Hydroxide or Caustic Soda) to be the best all around choice. Balancing:
Efficiency (low voltage to push amperage)
Cost and availability (easily acquired at low cost)
Safety (of caustic)
Longevity (if no foaming, stays in the electrolyzer for years)
Clean (produces no poisionous gasses, like chloride or carbon dioxide)
Clean (produces no sediment)
So while you can add Citric Acid, it’s OPTIONAL and Lye at one ounce per quart (about 30 grams per liter) is quite adequate for health application of our electrolyzers (like the ER50 or the AquaCure).
What containers should I use to store the bubbled water?
Prep it in the morning and have it at work to drink throughout the day!
Aluminum works best, I don’t know why. Normally (any other material) the goodness is half gone in a day (so use anything you like). Aluminum holds it for and additional day (goodness half gone in two days).
Keeping it cool also helps retain the ‘goodness’. Conversely, heating the bubbled water (like to make tea) drives the goodness away.
Now that the AquaCures have been in operation for over a year, I’m upgrading my cleaning maintenance procedure.
Several of the initial AquaCures had their sight tube and/or gas out hoses plug up due to manufacturing (from China) debris and fitting rust that made the orifices small, and then it took just a bit of ‘normal’ sludge to plug them up.
We now know to check for the debris as we rebuild the VING machines into AquaCure, so that’s much less of an issue… But many machines are out there with this debris in them.
Once the blockage is properly and fully cleared, there is usually no more issue, particularly if the sludge is cleared from the machine on a regular basis.
Sludge normally builds up in the machines for several reasons. And (interestingly enough) the machines that make the most ExW (higher quality gas) also make the most sludge (darn).
My (now) recommended cleaning procedure is about every 100 to 200 hours of operation;
First dump the lye solution into a plastic bucket (save it, don’t pour it down the drain).
Second, fill the AquaCure with warm (not hot) water (can be tap water) and dump it out (down the sink OK) as many times as needed until the water comes out clear (no sludge or debris).
Third, filter the saved lye solution through a coffee filter.
You keep the old lye because it is ‘conditioned’ and more efficient than ‘new’ lye. It does not matter if it’s discolored (that occurs in any case). What matters is to filter it to get out the debris and sludge; otherwise it’ll last for years.
If your gas production has been reducing, it may be because your lye solution has gotten weak. You will lose lye over time (for several reasons) so you can add an ounce of lye when the solution is out of the machine, but ONLY if you need it. You do not want the lye solution to become too concentrated.
When do I add more lye?
The lye is a catalyst, so it is not ‘consumed’ and in theory the initial charge would last a lifetime. However, in practice a tiny amount is lost out with the gas over time (that’s why we have the filter and humidifier).
Lye can also be lost when people pour out some of the solution or if you have a malfunctioning duckbill valve. The easiest way to determine when you need to add another ounce of lye is when you notice the gas production has dropped (and there is no gas leak or hose blockage).
Good that you are grounding yourself. It also helps to operate in a high humidity and not around materials that build up static electricity.
Can I buy my own lye?
You should not need to add much or often. Keep your old electrolyte when you clean out the machine, add a bit of new lye as needed (when the electrolyte is out of the machine) and you’ll be good for many years.
99% pure lye should be fine no matter the source.
Where can I get Lye?
I purchase my lye in bulk with special order at my local hardware store. Lye used to be available in most grocery stores and hardware stores but police campaigning has mostly removed it from those sources (it’s used to make Meth).
Lye (aka NaOH, sodium hydroxide and caustic soda) can be purchased online in quantity and cheaper than we sell it. Just order 99% pure lye.
Same with citric acid, although it can usually be purchased in a local whole food store bulk section (it’s used for canning fruit). We add citric acid to the mixture in the same ratio as the lye.
For Australian users I found the correct Lye which has no impurities added for cleaning drains and that is “Glitz” Caustic Soda and is readily available at “Bunnings ” Warehouse.
How do I add more Lye?
***NEVER pour powdered lye (or citric acid) down the water fill stem.
If you just pour the lye powder into the AquaCure it WILL set up like concrete and not go into solution, the hard chunks might even come loose and block internal gas orifices.
I recommended that you pour out the solution into a plastic bucket, add one ounce of lye (and optionally one ounce citric acid), mixing it in like you did when you made the initial catalyst batch.
Color of the electrolyte does NOT matter, it normally discolors with use. What matters is sludge or debris. If you see any sludge or debris in the solution you poured out, use the opportunity to filter the electrolyte solution through a coffee filter and pour the solution back into the AquaCure.
It’s also a good idea (if there is sludge or debris) to wash out the AquaCure with clean water, as many times as it takes until the water comes out clear (no sludge or debris).
Yes, you can add lye and citric acid solution when the AquaCure needs a top-up of water but ONLY when you want to add more lye. Typically you just top up the AquaCure with pure (distilled) water.
Why no blue light in sight tube?
We took off the blue light when we went to translucent tubing because it was near impossible to see the water meniscus (water line) even with the blue light and people were over-filling the machine, thinking that the blue light in the bottom was the fluid level.
But people whined and cried and begged so we put the blue light back in, and have a little white ball to help them see the meniscus. But sometimes the ball sticks, so it isn’t an ideal solution… but best we can do right now.
I can’t feel any gas coming out of the cannula.
when we use the nose prongs, we don’t seem to be able to feel any gas coming out of them.
I can’t either and I frankly don’t believe anyone who says they can. The gas volume is too small compared to what you normally breathe.
The ONLY practical way to know if gas is coming out the cannula is to submerge the prongs under water… and YES it’ll only bubble out of one prong, which one depends on which has the least resistance when under water.
But gas is bubbling in the containers. Does the gas only come into the nose prong tube as we inhale?
It will come SLIGHTLY more as you inhale but it’ll come regardless, (assuming you don’t have a gas leak).
Phil even put the nose prongs under water and no bubbles come out…is this normal please?
NO! not normal.
NO! not normal. You have a gas leak, likely on or around the bubbler lid. Submerge the bubbler under water and plug the cannula output and you’ll see the bubbles where the leak is.
Regarding static electricity: Our home is carpeted and we run around in our socks when indoors. Any thoughts?
Ground yourself on the machine before using it. Keep yourself grounded often.
Keep a higher humidity in the room that has the AquaCure in it.
Don’t wear static prone clothing around the AquaCure.
I read to only use a plug with earthing. The adapter supplied has no earth prong. Can I use my own lead from a different device that fits?
It’s OK to use without earth, but optimal to install an earthed plug.
Why is my AquaCure not making 75 liters per hour (lph)?
75 lph is NOT the ‘specified’ volume of the AquaCure.
75 lph is the MAXIMUM volume if everything is optimized for gas production. What the electrolyzer is CAPABLE of…
NOT what I recommend for health application.
I’ve deliberately throttled back on the gas production and I do not tell people what they’d need to do to get maximum gas production because I’m afraid they’d DO IT, thinking MORE is Better…
…And kill themselves if the gas explodes in their lungs.
For therapeutic use, more is NOT better. Once the blood is saturated with hydrogen you breathe out as much as you breathe in AND TOO MUCH IS EXPLOSIVE. Any air mixture that contains more than 4% hydrogen is EXPLOSIVE. 4% concentration is PLENTY to bubble in water (to saturate it) and to breathe (to saturate the blood). Most of the scientific studies use 2% hydrogen (all studies have had positive results).
For health application, my calculations are that an adult male shouldn’t get more than about 18 lph to keep the hydrogen content under the 4% limit. So anything over 18 lph is dangerous and not needed for therapeutic use.
For therapeutic use, forget ‘vigourous’ gas production and think ‘enough’ gas production.
If the AquaCure is producing up to 18 lph, it’s FULLY operational for therapeutic use.
All that said, I DO also promote the AquaCure as a ‘machine that can do everything’ so you may want to do things like:
Fuel a microtorch
Provide breathing gas for more than one person
More quickly infuse HydrOxy into water
Infuse HydrOxy into larger volumes of water
Make New Water
Use HydrOxy for carbon-fuel combustion enhancement
So I will tell you the MAIN thing you can do to increase gas production…And the caveats…
Simply add more lye. If you add more lye, up to a mixture of 25% by weight (so 1 kg of water and 0.25 kg of lye) the AquaCure will go to near it’s maximum volume production (it will also rise a bit more as it warms up).
I use a lean electrolyte mixture (1 ounce of lye per quart of water) for several reasons:
It’s only as caustic as strong soap. Not enough to cause chemical burns (though you still want to keep it out of mucus membranes and wash it off until the slippery feeling is gone). So a lean mixture is safer.
This lean mixture keeps the gas production of the AquaCure down into the safe range for a breathing gas.
A lean mixture is much less likely to foam (make soap bubbles) so there is less ‘carry-over’ of lye into the filter and humidifier. (also keeping the liquid level lower helps this). Again, safer.
I do not recommend (and seriously caution against) increasing gas production UNLESS you have a micro-torch (or some sort of restriction valve) so that you can adjust the gas volume for safe breathing.
I personally breathe a 9% mixture of hydrogen, but I’m aware of the risk and take personal responsibility. I use ONLY nasal cannula (masks are MUCH more prone to explosions), ground myself (and the machine) so that there is no ‘static voltage’ potential difference and have it set up in a static free environment.
Don’t think an explosion ‘can’t happen to you’ or get complacent. It CAN happen and HAS happened several times to people using hydrogen for health. NO ONE has been hurt (yet) because they have followed my protocols.
A man was using BG to treat the arthritis in his hand, so he had his hand bagged (so it was a high hydrogen concentration (BG is 66% hydrogen)) and his dog needed to go outside to poo. He took the tube out of the bag, but left the bag on his hand and shuffled across the carpet to the door and as he reached out to the doorknob, a spark jumped (to the OUTSIDE) of the bag and the potential difference of voltage (from the inside to the outside of the bag) ignited the BG and the bag went BANG.
He was not hurt, because it’s like a balloon popping, but his dog pooped on the floor.
The second story is about a man who was breathing the BG and his amorous wife was rubbing his thigh. I’m told she is prone to building up static electricity anyway and happened to touch the humidifier lid. Again, the spark OUTSIDE the plastic ignited the BG inside and blew the lid off the humidifier. The man got a slight bruise from flying plastic but otherwise, no damage.
They bought a new humidifier and are still using the AquaCure… But this brings up another point… GLASS! MANY people are asking me if they can use glass (and/or are doing it without asking). GLASS is DANGEROUS because a BG explosion will shatter glass and glass shards flying are MUCH MORE DANGEROUS than plastic.
I use ‘food grade’ plastics so please do not be concerned with VOCs or other poisons. And if you MUST use glass, then do NOT use the AquaCure.
If your machine (ER50, AquaCure or other BG electrolyzer) is producing too much gas for therapeutic breathing, seriously consider throttling it back using the micro-torch valve, (or some sort of restriction valve).
A strong lye concentration is more prone to foaming and misting, so WILL put more lye into your filter / humidifier, resulting in the need to change out the ‘scrubbing water’ more often.
You’ll know if there is lye getting into your drinking water if the water ‘tastes bad’.
If you use a strong lye mixture in the AquaCure, keep the liquid level lower when you are breathing. However, for maximum gas production you’ll want to keep the liquid level at about the 80% to ‘full’ levels.
Do you feel that the maximum concentration of hydrogen necessary for blood saturation is 4%?
NO. I feel that 4% is the maximum SAFE concentration to breathe. 4% is far above the concentration necessary to achieve full blood saturation (2% is proven to adequately achieve saturation). Once blood is saturated with hydrogen, you start breathing OUT as much as you as breathing IN. So more does nothing (or very little) therapeutically.
A higher breathing percentage does saturate the blood (or water, etc.) faster, but once saturated is of no benefit that I know… And is potentially explosive so I CANNOT (in good conscience) recommend breathing anything over 4%.
Then the question is, why do you personally breathe 9%?
As an experiment using myself as the guinea pig. To see what will happen. So far, I haven’t blown myself up.
And, how do you adjust to 9% if it comes out of the cannula at 66%? Is that by virtue of the dilution that occurs in your nasal passages and with higher lpm flow from your personal machine?
Correct. I don’t adjust, I just breathe the mixture as it comes out.
If I wanted less (a lower percentage), the AquaCure is designed to be able to do that using the torch valve, as I described in the previous answer.
George, Would just using a gallon ziplock bag be a simpler way to get a ballpark estimate for gas flow?
I’m thinking not accurate. Too many variables. How do you seal it? How do you know when it is full?
But it is better than nothing… Maybe ‘ballpark’.
How NOT to exceed 4% H2
You write: Do not allow breathed air:HydrOxy mixture to exceed 4% (by weight) of hydrogen in air. Me: how do I control this percentage?
Most people (including me) don’t bother. If you are breathing it with cannulas it’s highly unlikely that you’ll get a spark up in your nose. I breathe 9% hydrogen for at least 4 hours a day and have for almost two years now.
However, to answer your question, You first need to know how the volume of air the person ‘breathes’ then you’d calculate the MAXIMUM HydrOxy you that would keep the hydrogen portion (of the breathed mixture of air and HydrOxy) under the 4% level.production.
Once you know the maximum gas rate allowed I’d control it with the torch valve.
Simply set the valve to allow only enough gas so that you do not exceed the 4%.
Or is it auto-magic 2% with the AquaCure? Do I need to concern myself with this? Is this simply a matter of how much Lye one uses?
That is one of the reason’s I tell people to use one ounce of lye per quart of water. When the mixture is lean, it limits amperage flow, which limits gas production.